ROUNDABOUT

By Lois Dwan
Times Staff Writer

Downstairs to Authentic Hollywood

     Au Petit Cafe has a good thing with its new downstairs Sous Sol. It not only adds more room, but a happier arrangement of room with space enough for a bar and for tables to be set at banquettes around the walls.

     One wall is solidly hung with a random collection of gold and ornate mirrors that not only give a feeling of space, but a curiously correct suggestion of bizarre elegance. Faded splendor and painted pipes are on the ceiling.

     It also seems, again curiously, authentically Hollywood. Perhaps it is a wistful Hollywood, the way we wish we were with a touch of the European and sad songs on a guitar, but we are recognizable.

Wine List

     There are some impressive labels on the wine list—you may have a 1961 Romanee Conti or a 1952 Mouton Rothschild for $125—but no Californias.

     The house wine is unspecified burgundy shipped by Geisweiler. It was served in the bottle, rather than by carafe, and charged for according to consumption.

     Au Petit Café is not cheap. Principal dishes are $5.75 to $8.25. Our check was $22.25, without wine or cocktails . . .